Japan had found in ramen a way to raise its economy. They did not have two problems: Denmark and Germany

In July of last year many regions of Japan They adopted the same formula to lift their economies. The idea did not seem bad: if you get tourists as it is happening to the Japanese nation (monthly absolute record with three million last March), opportunities ariseand the ramen was a “must” for every tourist toile. The problem: that if everyone did the same and in each corner there was a ramen place, the opportunity became a battle. Thus, perhaps what has happened at the beginning of the year: Bankruptcies throughout the country map. To this we must add a problem that nobody saw thousands of kilometers.

A cultural symbol. None of this would be news if we did not speak “of the dish” in capital letters of the nation, or one of them. Ramen is one of the most emblematic Japanese gastronomy and occupies a special place in the country’s culinary culture. Traditionally considered a basic and affordable food for students, workers and families with a tight budget, it represents more than a simple dish of noodles: it is a reflection of the accessible spirit of Japanese cuisine.

However, this symbol of modesty and practicality faces a growing challenge with the increase in operational costs and psychological barriers in prices, Like that “wall of 1,000 yen”, a symbolic limit that rarely crossed until recently.

The perfect storm. Since 2020, the costs of basic ingredients such as algae, noodles and onions have increased significantly, With a 10% rise in just three years. This adds to the increase in energy, The weakness of the Yen against the dollar and supply problems caused by war in Ukraine.

All pressures that have led restaurants such as Tetsuya Kaneko and Taisei Hikage to make difficult decisions: increase the prices of their menus or face the possibility of closing. In many cases, price increases, although modest, They are accompanied by public apologiesreflecting the delicate balance between business sustainability and respect for customers.

And the other problem: meat. Yes, in addition to the rise of basic ingredients, the other fundamental problem It’s pork. Ramen restaurants in Japan are dealing with growing pressure due to the rise in animal prices, a key ingredient for His iconic chashu.

Denmark. The import prices of the European pig, particularly from Denmark, they have risen 6% in the last yearreaching between 810 and 830 yen per kilogram. The reason? The increase here is also due to a combination of factors: as in the basics, the feeding costs raised by the Russian invasion to Ukraine, but also because of the closure of processing plants in Europe, the weakening of the Chinese economy that has reduced The demand and the depreciation of the Yen that we comment, a whole that further imports imports.

The effects have been translated, again, in Wholesale prices and finally in the menus Of the restaurants, with many businesses breaking that psychological barrier of the 1,000 yen for a bowl bowl, which could scare away customers.

And Germany. It is the second big problem derived from meat. The recent detection of Afitosa fever in Germany has generated a new challenge, because although Japan no matter pork there, Countries like South Korea and the United Kingdom did, and now they are resorting to alternatives In other European suppliers, which increases pressure on global pig prices.

Using Brazil. Yes, this cultivation broth has made Japan is resorting to Brazil as a new suppliertripling its imported pork imports from the country to 10,131 tons in November 2024.

However, the change does not seem to have mitigated the costs at all, since the price of the pig, along with the rest of the essential ingredients we were talking about at the beginning, such as pork fat, Nori, fresh noodles and green onions, follows up. Onions, for example, have experienced a 29% increase in the last year.

Impact and bankruptcy. The crisis not only affects ingredients. Nikkei said this week That labor costs and rentals have also increased, leading many small and medium businesses to the limit. In 2024, 72 Ramen restaurants operators with debts greater than 10 million yen declared bankruptcymarking a record and exceeding the levels reached during the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020. Not only that. About 30% of respondents by the firm Teikoku Databank reported losses, reflecting the difficult situation of the industry.

Answer and impact on consumers. In front of this panorama, Chains like Yamaokaya They have opted for increasing prices, but only from some menusincluding Ramen with Chashu, while looking to keep prices under control in collaboration with their suppliers.

However, the measures do not seem to have been enough to relieve the financial pressure of many establishments, which struggle to balance quality, affordability and sustainability in a highly competitive market. Ramen, until recently An opportunity to raise economies From the nation, it is taking many businesses to bankruptcy, threatening the road to a whole symbol of Japanese gastronomy.

Image | Sodai Gomi

In Xataka | Japan is suffering a bankruptcy record from Ramen. And in part it is the result of the “1,000 yen barrier”

In Xataka | The cities of Japan have begun a fierce struggle to lift their economy. THE KEY RECIPE: Ramen