Few things are more representative of the tastes of a nation than The ingredients of a pizza. Therefore, when in November we count that a fruit from Southeast Asia (prohibited in some public spaces due to its penetrating smell) I was driving Chinese consumers crazy To the point of adding it to the pizza, Durián acquired another category in the nation’s gastronomy. The demand for the fruit is such that even Four countries fight to send it.
Everyone wants fruit. The Durianknown for its penetrating aroma and its peculiar flavor, has ceased to be simply a fruit in China to become A gastronomic and commercial phenomenon. Despite the slowdown in the spending of the Chinese middle class, the demand for this forbidden fruit in some places has grown without brake, promoting record imports, the development of new culinary trends and a fierce competition Among the countries of Southeast Asia to supply the growing Chinese market.
The transformation of Durian. As we said, Durián has transcended his exotic fruit status to become a trend in the restoration sector in China, where The concept of “Everything can lead Durian” has resulted in a proliferation of thematic restaurants. Innovation around this product has led to the creation of unusual dishes like Durián’s hamburgers, Hot Pots of chicken with Durián or even barbecues from Durián, who have gained great popularity on social networks.
To get an idea, the Douyin, the Chinese version of TiktokHashtags like “Durian Barbecue” and “Durian Buffet” They have accumulated more than 1.24 billion visualizationsreflecting the enthusiasm of Chinese consumers for new gastronomic experiences focused on the controversial fruit. Moreover, a restaurant in Shenzhen recently went viral offering A buffet of more than 200 Durián de Malaysia plates By 199 yuan ($ 27.39) per person, which demonstrates the rise of these culinary concepts.
Exponential growth in China. In the last five years, The demand of the nation for Durián has shotreflecting in an increase of more than double in its imports. In 2023, China imported 1.43 billion kilograms of Duriánwith a value of 6.7 billion dollars, a figure that In 2024 it rose to 1.56 billion kilograms and 7 billion dollars.
This growth has been promoted by the opening of the market to new suppliers and the enthusiasm of local consumers, who as we said, have incorporated Durián into a wide variety of gastronomic products. Hence one of the clearest symbols of this fever is Durián’s pizza success with cheese in China’s Pizza Hutturned into your best -selling product. Even Yum China’s CEO, Joey Wat, joked in a global forum in New York that Those who do not enjoy this delicacy should simply “leave” the restaurant.
The end of the Thai monopoly: fights four. Historically, Thailand dominated the export of fresh Durián to China, representing up to 95% of the market in 2022. However, with the opening of the Chinese market to Vietnam in 2022 already the Philippines in 2023, Dynamics changed dramatically. In 2024, Thailand only represented 52% of Chinese imports, while Vietnam captured 47.2%.
In this regard, Philippines and Malaysia, although with minor participations, have also begun to export fresh Durium to China, taking advantage of regulatory flexibility. Causes? The fall in the Thai market share is due to two key factors: the excessive use of agricultural land, which has decreased production, and extreme heat waves, which have affected the quality of the fruit. In contrast, Vietnam has benefited from its geographical proximity with China, which facilitates land transport and reduces logistics costs.
Geopolitics of Durián. In the end, Durian is not only a source of income for Southeast Asia farmers, but also a economic diplomacy tool. In fact, China has used the importation of Durián As part of its commercial agreements with neighboring countries.
An example of this was the approval, in June 2023, of the importation of the fresh fruit of Malaysia, within the framework of the 50th anniversary of diplomatic relations between the two countries. By the end of that year, Malaysia had exported 351 tons of fresh Durián to Chinaconsolidating its presence in a market that previously only accepted its processed or frozen products. Meanwhile, Indonesia, another great producer of Durián, Keep looking for authorization to export fresh fruit directly to China. Currently, you can only sell fruit paste, a lower value product, or send the fruit to Thailand for inspection before exporting it, which reduces its gain margins.
Durián “Chino”. And if you wonder why the Chinese nation does not start producing its own fruit if it likes it so much, they have already tried. Given the growth of demand and the high cost of imports, China has tried to grow Durian in its own landspecifically on the tropical island of Hainan.
The problem? The results have been discouraging. Recent studies have revealed that Durians grown in Hainan lack some of the essential nutrients present in the native fruits of Southeast Asia, which has generated doubts about its commercial viability. It is the law of nature, the delicate combination of temperature, humidity and soil quality necessary for the cultivation of this fruit seems to be difficult to replicate outside its natural habitat.
It is the market, friend. Be that as it may, the unusual Chinese appetite for Durián has transformed the southeast Asian fruit industryconsolidating it as an export product of great value where A hard battle is fought for supplying the giant. A phenomenon that has reconfigured commercial dynamics, weakening the domain of Thailand and opening opportunities for Vietnam, the Philippines and Malaysia.
If you want also, the Durián diplomacy It has proven to be a strategic tool in the commercial relations of the Chinese nation with its neighbors, while attempts to produce it locally face significant challenges.
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