If there are wine lists, if there are sommeliers specialized in liquor, if there are people willing to spend hundreds of euros on bottles of whiskey, vodka or a good Port… Why wouldn’t exactly the same thing happen with water? It may sound strange if we take into account that water is (by definition) a “tasteless” liquid, but for some time it has been encouraging a premium market that already aspires to mobilize more than 56 billion of dollars in just a few years.
Curiously (or not) the phenomenon coincides with a complex scenario for alcohol, which suffers a particular crisis among the new generations.
Premium water? Exact. Water is by definition (at least for the RAE) a “clear, colorless, odorless and tasteless” liquid, but that does not mean that all waters are identical. In the same way that not all wines, whiskeys, vodkas or beers are. And the proof is that in recent years a powerful, growing and, above all, lucrative premium H2O market has been taking shape.
It may not be particularly well-known or as widespread as the wine or beer market, but a quick search comes in to see if it is. in full expansion global. And that Spain does not remain alien to the trend.


Is it that obvious? Yes. And no. The demand for premium water is still light years away from that of other drinks, but it has been gaining followers and making its way into the market for some time. Good proof is that in recent days media outlets such as the Americans have dedicated reports to him. The Wall Street Journal and Foxthe British Guardian or the south korean The Chosun Daily. They talk about bottles ranging from 11 to 95 dollars (in reality there are bottles a lot much more expensive), restaurants with extensive H2O menus or sommeliers specializing in water.
Are there figures? Yes. As a figure always says more than extensive explanations, it is good to take a look at the study ‘Premium Bottled Water Market’published in February by the Research & Markets platform. It contains some data that gives an idea of the scope and, above all, the projection of the global market for what are considered ‘delicatessen waters’. According to its authors, last year it was close to 36.2 billion dollars and the forecasts call for it to continue growing at a compound annual rate of 7.5% until it exceeds 56 billion in 2030.
What’s more, in a report dedicated to the demand for premium waters in the United States, Natasha Dangoor, of The Wall Street Journalexplains that right now there are some restaurants already billing $100,000 annually through the sale of water. Specifically, the business newspaper cites a restaurant in Los Angeles that offers its clientele an extensive menu that includes liquids bottled in places like Australia or Armenia and sold for $11 or $13. Of course the place also offers tap water from Los Angeles at no cost.
Is it something widespread? Although the analysis from Research & Markets show a clearly rising market that is still far from other more conventional ones, such as wine, whiskey or beer. According to WSJin the entire United States there are only a dozen restaurants that offer a water menu as such, although experts already predict that this number will probably grow little by little.
There are similar premises in Italy, Denmark, the United Kingdom or Spain. In fact Wall Street Journal place here (more specifically in Galicia) the business with the most extensive water menu in the world. The restaurant in question is called O Lar do Leitónis located in Ourense, and for years was already presented as the establishment of its type with the largest supply of water bottles on the entire planet. You don’t have to imagine it. His full menu of H2O can be consulted online.
Do you only go to restaurants? At all. The fever for premium waters does not only affect hoteliers. There are also sommeliers, platforms specialized and international competitionslike the one recently held in Atlanta (Georgia, USA), where more than a hundred waters from 35 countries competed for the title of best water. Those responsible for issuing the ruling? Judges capable of appreciating aspects such as the aroma or taste of different types of water, no matter how much the RAE insists on define the liquid as an odorless and tasteless substance.
The market has reached a sufficient level of maturity to have already been involved in the occasional scandal capable of crossing borders, such as the one that occurred recently. in France by the popular water brand Perrier.
But… Why that boom? The million dollar question. Why this interest in water? What leads someone to spend tens or hundreds of euros on a bottle of an apparently tasteless liquid? That question he had it done not long ago Simon Usborne, a reporter who visited a place in Cheshire (United Kingdom) specialized in water to try different types of liquid and above all evaluate aspects such as nuances of flavor or how the liquids pair with each meal.
“I take a sip before I drink. It’s a strange feeling,” Usbourne relates after ordering a 12-pound bottle filled with water collected in the Piedmont region. “It is so soft and smooth that it almost slides, instead of flowing, over my tongue (…). When after a bite of crab I take another sip, the dryness disappears and the water enhances the creaminess of the crab. It works curiously well.”
The keyhe points out, is in the minerals, the dissolved solids (TDS)such as sodium, calcium, magnesium and potassium. Their differences explain why nuances are appreciated in the water (a sweet, bitter, acidic flavor…), but above all that there are better or worse options depending on the type of dishes we are going to eat, whether it is more or less heavy.
Of course, no adding lemon slices or ice cubes to the glass.
Are there more reasons? There is who relates interest in water with another phenomenon: a Gen Z less interested in alcoholic beverages and more in physical health. This trend would explain, for example, the success of Liquid Deatha company that has managed to make millions of dollars by dedicating itself basically to marketing canned water. Their bet: an irreverent aesthetic. According to the data it handles Fortunethe company is valued at 1.4 billiona sum amassed especially with the commitment to water, iced tea and fruit juices.
Images | Manki Kim (Unsplash) and Chris Ralston (Unsplash)


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