It’s not no newcomer to the Italian coasts, but still the blue crab (Callinectes sapidus) represents a huge headache for the Government of Georgia Meloni. Originally from the western Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico, this crustacean with powerful pincers, a bluish color and a voracious appetite has turned Italy’s clam and mussel production upside down, causing millionaire lossesthreatening jobs and affecting the country’s culinary tradition.
To combat it, in Italy they have resorted to huge networksthey have financed their capture and have even opened their restaurants to blue crab. Now, in the absence of results, they are adopting a new strategy: farming oysters.
A blue and pincer threat. He Callinectes sapidus (the famous blue crab) is recognized above all for its tone and its claws, so powerful that they allow it to easily climb and break fishermen’s nets. However, there is another trait that defines it much better: the voracity.
An insatiable predator, it devours clams, mussels, fish eggs, other native crabs with weaker shells… The same resources that have kept thousands of fishermen afloat for generations and nourished part of Italian gastronomy. It is assumed that the Callinectes sapidus takes in Italy since 1940but now its expansion begins to reach unsustainable levels.
“A desert”. “The blue crabs are eating everything. This stretch of lagoon is turning into a desert,” regretted a few years ago from the Po Delta Gianluca Travaglia, a 52-year-old fisherman dedicated to catching clams. The situation was so drastic that, he admitted, some of his colleagues no longer used networks. “The crabs swim towards them and break them.”
In 2023 Flu Fedaa sector association, estimated the economic impact of the invasive species at about 100 million euros in Italy. According to his calculations, the predator was killing about 90% of the young clams in the Po delta. Daniela Borriello, from Coldirettishared in 2024 another estimate: In the northern Adriatic, the area most affected by the invasion, production has plummeted by 80%. “The jobs of 3,000 people are in danger.”
Looking for solutions. The situation is so dramatic that both the authorities and the fishermen themselves have sought ways to stop the plague.
In the Venetian lagoon, for example, clam farmers have come to “fortify” your nurseries with nets that appear five feet above the water. Without success. Crabs climb and break them. Campaigns have also been launched to remove tons of crabs from the coasts and invested million of euros in the fight against the invasive species, although without great results.
The warming of the oceans and the absence of predators do not make it easy for fishermen either, so some time ago in Italy they took heart and they applied an old strategy: ‘if you can’t beat them, join them’. Or eat them, if necessary. The chefs they started looking ways to include the invasive species on your plates or look for new marketslike the US or China.
Is it a solution? It certainly doesn’t seem optimal. And for several reasons. To begin with, more and more scientists warn of the environmental risks of ‘invasiveness’the trend of opening local cuisines to invasive species and turning species like blue or Kamchatka crab into ingredients.
In the specific case of Callinectes sapidus, Their consumption does not seem to be arousing passions in Italy either, despite the attempts of some chefs to incorporate them into their pasta dishes. The Italian economic environment Quifinance assures that only 15% of blue crabs find an outlet in the food market and their commercialization is limited by the complexity of their processing. In fact, other avenues are already being tested, such as its use in feed.
Oysters to the rescue. Beyond the nets, mass captures or their incorporation into local cuisine, in Italy they have deployed another strategy to fight against blue crabs. Which? Bet on oysters.
As points out Il Sole 24 Orethe idea is very simple: move from clam nurseries to the cultivation of oyster varieties that, due to their characteristics, are much more resistant to attacks by blue crabs. It’s not just theory. In the Sacca di Goro lagoon (located in the Po Delta), fishermen’s cooperatives they have already diversified its production betting on stras.
“More resistant”. “A first step has been taken thanks to the financing, through the Development Fund, of a study dedicated to the enhancement of crab meat,” comments Roberto Saviniby Confcooperative Romagna-Estense. “At the same time, cooperatives have begun significant investment in the cultivation and marketing of certain oysters.”
Even media like The Republic have been echoed how there are fishermen dedicated to clams who have decided to switch to oysters, “more resistant.”
One of the most recent cases It is left by the Goro cooperatives, in Ferrara, which, faced with the harassment of the blue crab, have decided to give more weight to oyster cultivation. Specifically, the professionals from Gorino and Sant’Antonio have begun to invest in varieties that are a priori more resistant to the new predator (such as Mignon or Lampa) and that at the same time can have an outlet in the Italian gastronomic market.
Solved then? No. The commitment to oysters is just one of the strategies deployed by the Government and Italian fishermen. And it is not without challenges either. One key is the image that oysters have.
Unlike clams, a large part of the market continues to view them as a luxury item. To solve this and aware of the opportunity they represent for the fishing industry, Italy has considered reducing its VAT, passing it from 22 to 10%. “Oysters are a luxury good because they are expensive, not because nature has made them luxurious,” recognize the Minister of Agriculture.
Another challenge is to expand the gap that oysters now occupy in the market. Fedagripesca estimates that Italians consume around 10,000 tons of oysters annually, the vast majority (97%) of foreign origin. “Italy, with its more than 7,000 km of coastline, could compete with France for the title of cradle of the oyster, recovering a production that dates back to the ancient Romans. The business would generate more than 60 million,” says Paolo Tiozzofrom the cooperative.
If Italy finally manages to turn the tables and alleviate the impact of the blue crab with new oyster beds, its lesson will also be interesting for Spain, whose coast (and fishermen) is not foreign to the expansion of the crustacean.
Images | James St. John (Flickr), Mr.TinMD (Flickr), Cathrine Skovly (Unsplash) and Mitili Mitili (Unsplash)
Via | DAP
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