Roscón

In the Western collective imagination there is a preconceived idea: that in the United States you can buy anything. And of course, that image from the series and movies of a character buying a gun in a grocery store without much problem (later we will see that in practice this reality has a lot of fine print) and the hodgepodge of different slogans such as “The country of opportunities” or “the land of the free” do not help to think otherwise. However, if you are in the United States these days and the homesickness hits you so hard that you want a roscón de Reyes, you are going to be in for a surprise: although you can buy this popular sweet in some stores, it has lost a good part of the magic of the true ritual of eating a roscón: that someone randomly (more or less, we do not judge your expertise when moving figurines with the knife that splits) touches the figurine. Because although in the United States you can find the “King Cake”, most stores don’t take the risk and put the figurine aside, so that you can put it inside. They do it to comply with the law and avoid fines since, scrupulously speaking, the roscón de Reyes as it is known in Spain is illegal. There are roscones and roscones. First of all, the traditional roscón de Reyes that is consumed in Spain is neither the only one that exists nor is it only consumed here: France and Portugal also have their respective galette des rois with puff pastry or Gâteau des Roiswith almond cream and a figure. In Portugal there is the Bolo Rei with candied fruits and dried fruits. This European celebration was exported to America, adapting with other flavors and customs of each region. Thus, there are the Roscas de Reyes from Mexico, Colombia and Guatemala and there are also in the United States in the form of King Cakea popular candy in Louisiana for the Mardi Gras and also in Quebec, which has its own shades and glazes. In the case of the King Cake, the figurine in question was a baby that was once baked inside. In the past they were made of porcelain (“Frozen Charlotte”), but then they became plastic and generally, to stand outsideleaving the consumer the responsibility of hiding it inside before serving it, so there are those who who is disappointed. But it is better for a consumer to be disappointed than to face a fine or lawsuits. What the law says. The regulations that apply in this case are the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Law (Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act or FD&C Act) in force since 1938. The section that interests us for this matter is in section 402where it details that “confectionery that is partially or completely embedded with any non-nutritive object is adulterated, unless the FDA has issued a regulation that recognizes that the non-nutritive object has practical functional value to the confectionery product and would not render it harmful or dangerous to health.” The most famous example is Kinder eggs. And spoiler: neither the bean nor the roscón figurine is considered to have any practical functional value. Worse than fines are lawsuits. The fine in question for disobeying the law and integrating the figurine into the roscón is moderately low (to give us an idea, that of smuggled Kinder eggs it’s 2,500 dollars), that is why over the years there have been bakeries that have dared to challenge the law, arguing that culturally, whoever buys a Three Kings roscón, you already know that there are objects inside. However, possible cases of suffocation or injuries such as breaking a tooth that lead to lawsuits can be much more expensive. So there are those who deliver the roscón alone, others who place a large warning label and the figure in a separate bag and in plain sightin places like in the center of the cake or sitting on it. This is the most common practice in industrial bakeries or supermarket chains such as Walmart. It is easier to buy a gun than a roscón with a figurine inside. Returning to the purchase of weapons from the intro, sales in physical stores are centralized in gun stores and large stores with a sports and outdoor section. In the case of Walmartthey have stopped marketing pistols and military rifles to focus on hunting rifles and shotguns and in any case, the process is the same: with a separate counter, specialized personnel, you must be 21 years old and you have to fill out the federal form 4473 accompanied by your identification and they will accompany you to the door to make sure that you do not take it out of the box there. In Xataka | There is an eternal struggle between supporters of the roscón with cream and without cream. This is what science says about it In Xataka | The pastry chef’s wet dream (and the customer’s nightmare) has come true: a roscón filled with cream… without cream Cover | Photo of Nejc Soklič in Unsplash and DAP