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For years, we have been sold collagen as some kind of shortcut to youth. It seemed that it was enough to cast a tablespoon of coffee powder, take one capsule a day either join the latest fashion routine on networks to, supposedly, stop the clock. Creams, supplements and drinks have ended up making this protein the main protagonist of current anti-aging discourse. However, that narrative is beginning to crack. More and more scientific evidence, supported by dermatologists, agrees that collagen supplements do not work as we think. In many cases, there is not even clear evidence that they do anything. The gap between what marketing promises us and what science really says is today greater than ever. Collagen, under scientific review. The notice does not come from just any blog or from a passing criticism; It comes straight from academic dermatology. According to ScienceDailyspecialists insist that there is no conclusive evidence to support the use of these supplements to effectively combat skin aging. Dr. Farah Moustafa, dermatologist and professor at Tufts University, she is very clear about it: “Oral collagen supplements are not currently recommended to treat skin aging, although they may be considered alongside other more effective and better-studied interventions.” A good melon has opened. The debate does not center on whether or not there are favorable studies, but rather on what type of studies support these claims. As Moustafa explainsafter reviewing 23 clinical trials, a pattern that gives food for thought was detected: Studies with positive results were usually of low quality or paid for by the brands themselves. The most rigorous, independently funded studies found no real benefits from taking collagen. In other words, when the level of scientific demand is raised, the promised effect is diluted. Everything is born from a misunderstanding. Much of the success of collagen is based on an idea that seems logical but is false: “If I lose collagen, I eat it and get it back.” But the body is not a reservoir that is refilled like this. It is true that collagen is key since It represents 30% of our protein and supports skin, bones and tendons, and it is also true that over the years we make less, which brings wrinkles and sagging. The mistake is in believing that ingesting it means sending it directly to the face. At Tufts Universityremember that the digestive system It breaks everything down into small pieces (amino acids) before absorbing it. Once inside, the body distributes these pieces according to its biological priorities (such as organs or muscles), which do not always coincide with our desire to look better. There is no way to guarantee that this “material” end up in the dermis. Reformulation of the message. Seeing this biological obstacle, the message has been mutating. They no longer just sell plain collagen; Now they talk about hydrolyzed collagen, peptides, marine or even vegetable. The idea is to sell you that, if the body does not absorb the entire protein, perhaps it will make better use of these loose pieces. Even so, the data continues to be taken with a grain of salt. Although some studies find modest improvements in the hydration or elasticity of the skin, most of these works are small in size, analyze supplements that contain other added ingredients (vitamins, minerals) and do not allow the real effect of collagen to be isolated. Furthermore, even in the best case scenario, there is no control over where that newly synthesized collagen will be used. But there is an added problem. Beyond effectiveness, dermatologists warn about another less visible aspect: the safety and control of supplements. According to Dr. Moustafacollagen supplements, especially those of marine origin, can be contaminated with methylmercury. Added to this is a structural problem, supplements do not go through the same controls as medications. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, cited by ScienceDailymany of the supplements available do not have third-party verification, do not clearly detail their ingredients, and have not been previously evaluated for safety or effectiveness. However, this regulatory gap is not exclusive to collagen; we can also observe it in stem cell supplements in a strategy known as scienceploitation. So what do dermatologists really recommend? Experts do not say that you should stop taking care of yourself, but rather that you should go back to what has been proven. According to dermatologists consulted by ScienceDailythe best tricks are the usual ones: Use sunscreen daily to prevent UV damage. Regular application of topical retinoids at night. Balanced diet, rich in protein and vitamin C. Avoid tobacco and reduce sun exposure. Collagen as a cultural phenomenon. The rise of collagen cannot be understood from biology alone. This boom also responds to a increasing aesthetic pressureamplified by social networks, filters and discourses of constant self-optimization. The obsession with “staying young” does not affect everyone equally. The anti-aging industry disproportionately targets women, reinforcing the idea that aging is a flaw that must be corrected. In this context, collagen becomes not only a supplement, but a symbol of a social demand. While science advances cautiously, the market accelerates. The global skin care industry moves hundreds of billions of dollars, and constantly needs new ingredients, promises and narratives to sustain its growth. The end of a myth (or at least, an exaggerated promise). The current medical consensus does not state that collagen is useless, but rather that it is not the miracle it has been sold. It does not rejuvenate the skin on its own, it does not directly reach where it promises and, in many cases, it offers benefits that are difficult to distinguish from a good general diet. In the end, real health is less glamorous than a bottle of shiny powder: it’s about perseverance, good habits, and understanding that aging is not a mistake that can be solved with capsules. Perhaps the problem is not collagen itself, but our need to believe that youth can be bought and bottled. Image | Unsplash and freepik Xataka | The … Read more