usatoday24
If you think of Cyprus it is most likely to come to mind their beaches Mediterranean and archaeological treasuresmay even that its gastronomy, with stars such as FASOLADA or squid dishes. What may not be so famous is your sweet wine Commandaria. And that is one of the most ancient broths in the world (but the one that most) and the World Guinness Record He attributes him the oldest known. Now in Cyprus there are some wine wore on which all that changes and the Commandaria Recover the fame that I had centuries ago.
In their favor they have a long (very long) story.
A name: “COMMANDARY “. If you are wines lover, especially from sweet broths and with history, “Commandaria” It is a name to remember. This is how the drink elaborated in the southwest of Chipre with native grapes has been known for centuries (Mavro and Xynisteri) and following a traditional technique that results in a sweet and amber wine. Among other peculiarities, to enhance their flavor the grapes are left in the sun for more than a week.
Why is it special? For several reasons. The main one, Its history. The legend ensures that the wine was baptized by the crusaders of the s. XIII, when the Cyprus area in which it occurs was known as ‘La Grande Commanderie’; But its origins date back much further. How much? There are those who say that it was already elaborated in the 800 AC Or even 5,000 yearsthat in antiquity was called “Nama” and that comes with reviewing the history books to find references about him.
Does almost 3,000 years They already praised him Homer and Euripides And around his barrels a good handful of stories and legends have been generated, as in the thirteenth century won the first wine contest of which we have proof or that the king himself Ricardo Heart of León It served among his guests to celebrate his wedding in Cyprus, in 1191. And that between a long (very long) list of stories that at least show that the Commandaria Enjoy a rich tradition.
A record wine. What is unquestionable is that Chilean sweet wine can boast of being one of the oldest on the entire planet. But the one that most. So assures it The Guinness World Records, which recognizes it as “the oldest elaborate wine”, tracing its origins to 2,000 AC “also holds the record of ‘Appelation d´origine’ older, “clarifies the record certifying organization. In 1223, in a gesture that demonstrates his fondness for CommandariaKing Felipe de France included came to designate him “The apostle of the wines.”
A past splender. Neither his history nor having been a kings drink has served him to Commandaria to shine in the competitive wine market of the 21st century. AP requires that production reached its peak already centuries ago, Towards the XV and XVIwhen Cyprus was under the control of Venice, and during the last years the production has been around the 200,000 bottles. As a reference, of the 60,000 hectares of Do Rioja, more than 250 million of liters.
Why’s that? There are several keys that help understand the recent drift of the Commandaria. A few months ago the specialized magazine The World of Fine Wine I remembered that the island managed to boost its exports after the 1930s with the one known as “Jerez Chipriot”, but The entrance of the country in the EU and the regulation on the denominations marked a first handicap. Nor has it helped drift from fashions in the market and loss of interest For the broths with sweet flavors, nor the little promotion that has been made outside of Cyprus.
One of the Factors More recent that has harmed its demand is the Ukraine War. The western sanctions that followed the progress of the Russian troops in March 2022 affected the flow of Russian tourists, hitting a valuable market for the Chipriot wine. Years ago there were wineries who tried to expand to the Chinese market, but the attempt did not go well among other reasons because the producers themselves were unable to meet demand.
Why is it news? Because in Cyprus a clear attempt is appreciated for relaunching the Commandaria. Both by institutions and the sector. Perhaps the clearest proof is that In 2024 Chipre presented his candidacy to register the Commandaria in the list of UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
The proposal can already be consulted in The official website of the organism together with the broad argument presented by its promoters, providing abundant information about the 14 territory They produce Commandaria. The idea of the Cypriots authorities is that the candidacy can be reviewed this year.
Both the agency AP Like the chain CNN They have echoed the attempts of small chipre wineries to recover traditional techniques and favor the resurgence of the Commandaria. In Ayios Mamas it has its facilities for example Revcca, a winery that produces about 3,000 bottles a year. “First we must guarantee the consistency of product quality and conquer the domestic market before making a collective effort abroad.”
His advantage: tradition. A decade ago the most popular brand of Chipriotic wine, Keo St. John, produced just over 130,000 liters that were mainly directed to the national market, although at that time it pointed to its potential outside the country, with exports aimed at Russia, Scandinavia, France, Australia or the United States. “It has all the elements of Cyprus: honey, herbs, vanilla, spices and nuts like plums,” defended His senior winemaker.
Now the strategy of the microbodegas chipriotas who want to boost the Commandaria It is to bet on its great differential value: the historical tradition. For that purpose they are recovering traditional elaboration techniques. “We focus on improving quality instead of obsessing the quantity.”
Images | Secret Travel Guide (UNSPLASH), Yanay Rosen (Flickr) and Wikipedia
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