The “gastrocringe” is taking over the network

Gastronomic exhibitionism videos have been placing social networks for a while. Of homemade dishes to extravagances of haute cuisine that, from a time to this part, have been accompanied by a new trend: the Gastrocringe. It is a coined term By chef Julián Otero to define the latest trends in videos, where they meet Influencersgrotesque food and waste glutton, everything to feed (precisely) an algorithm that knows how to appeal to our most basic instincts.

Gastrocringethe phenomenon. We are facing a term invented by chef Julián Otero, of the R&D team of the Mugaritz restaurant (Errentería, Gipuzkoa) and that, from his Instagram account, Puebla his Stories of countless examples of Influencers and businesses that propose a cartoon approach and, according to their opinion, harmful, to food. “It was a kind of intention of justice to what I saw and was wrong” Comment at eldiario.es: “In these Clips There are many things that are not well not only at the technical level, but at the moral level. “

Some examples. What is seen in the videos that Otero treasures (whose account is dedicated to a more responsible approach to the kitchen, but that files these videos in the outstanding stories of his profile) is a true fair of culinary horrors: recipes hypercaloric and of monstrous sizeobjects manufactured with food (with bonus for the nursery), Cheap eroticism (and always with abundant waste of nutrients), Attacked to public health, Influencers obsessed with disproportionate foodVisits a infernal premises…

Proper names. Among all this wave of creators who try to get on all kinds of viral tendencies, some creators who are guiding their videos more and more to grotesque food. They are cases like Nick Digiovanni, a chef who oscillates between the traditional and The excessesor that of Burak Özdemir, one of the international stars of the genre, known for its Excessive preparations to feed regiments And his stoic smile.

The list, without the need to go to international stars, is endless: the tremendous Piyush Singhexcessive nurseries of Edurnyxthe very local and very insane My Top Burgerspure and hard waste of food from SURETHANY HEJEIJthe clonic and imitated style of COMILONESTV… The relationship is immense.

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We always liked to enter the kitchen. The food is to eat it, there we all agree, but also to exhibit it. It happens since ancient times, in which in Persian, Egyptian, Greek and Roman civilizations, banquets were social events of status exhibition. Then there was the show cookingthat today is something that many restaurants have, even of haute cuisine: cooking the dishes in view of the diners.

#Foodporn. With this feeling so based in kitchens around the world (videos about food are absolutely transversal and are performed from all kinds of nationalities and food styles), it soon was implemented on social networks. The term Food Porn (although strictly it was Invented in 1977 by Alexander Cockburn) It was popularized by feminist critic Rosalind Coward in the eighties. From there, the jump to social networks: the hashtag #foodporn not only became a great trend Commercial powerbut in a term that went to everyday speech.

First World problems. He Gastrocringe It also has a dark moral face worthy of being monitored. According to the anthropologist of the Food Xavier Medina Luque for eldiario.es, these phenomena denote privilege: “When you batter a mars bar in 300 things and you put cod and chocolate, it is because you have plenty of everything and you can do things like that.” That is, we connect with the Origins of food excesses In the banquets of antiquity: it is made Not because he is rich, but because can. Food is one of the MAIN INVIGUDITY MARCHANTS.

He Gastrocringeapart from reinforcing those markers, it is pure visual nursery, a parade of shocking images and completely lacking normality, which is what We continually search the Internet In search of a new chute of strong emotions. Already on television there were excessive comilonas programs, and now they are in the networks with all the load of immediacy and transacity that they entail. We fascinate the extreme and the Gastrocringe It is only the last chapter.

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