tshirt

Among the things that are no longer what they were cotton t-shirts take center stage. That’s because we have physical evidence: almost all of us have some cotton garment from years ago with better look than a newly purchased one. Why is this happening? For technological development. Like any industry, the textile industry seeks to be more efficient, to achieve more with less. What is sacrificed in the process is quality. However, all is not lost and those great t-shirts from before can still be found, if you know what to look for (and when you finish reading this article you will). In the case of cotton fabric, quality is determined by two variables: The raw material. The spinning process. Let’s start with the raw material. The best varieties of cotton are Sea IslandEgyptian, Egyptian American and pima. Its fibers exceed 32 millimeters in length, and are fine and resistant. Despite this, its production volume is ridiculously low in proportion to international volumes: only 3%. The problem is that it grows slowly and its harvests are small. 90% of world cotton production belongs to the type American Upland. Within this variety there are different levels of quality, depending on the thickness and length of the fibers, but these do not usually exceed the 25 millimeters. The problem is the yarn Depending on the quality of the fiber, one spinning process or another is used, causing the fabrics to improve or worsen greatly. The vast majority of advertising t-shirts or brand t-shirts fast fashion They use a yarn called “open end”. What does it consist of? It is a technology developed in the ’60s. in Czechoslovakiacreated specifically to take advantage of low-quality, short-fiber cotton. It is very similar to the manufacture of cotton candy: the fibers spin in a giant drum and if you start pulling on a rope, they wind around it, creating the thread. (Keagan Henman/Unsplash) A T-shirt made with “open end” cotton has a less soft touch, breaks faster and pills after a few washes. The explanation? If we greatly enlarge the photo of such a thread, we see that it looks like a tangled skein, with many ends sticking out. It is precisely these ends that form the balls. The problem is not only the use of short-staple cotton. In addition, in the process it is damaged even more: with the rotation of the drum, any imperfection on its surface functions as a bladechopping up the fibers. To improve the quality of this yarn, surgical steel drums have begun to be used. Its surface is very smooth, which reduces breakage. This is how, for example, t-shirts are made. Fruit of the Loom marked with the Belcoro seal. Improving the “open end“ The next level of quality is the threads ring spun. In its manufacture, medium-length fibers and an older technology are used, which imitates manual spinning: the cotton is carded to eliminate impurities and to align the fibers that are then twisted and stretched. The result is a smooth, uniform thread, with few protruding ends. A fabric made with these threads is much more resistant, hardly pills and has a pleasant touch. It is used by brands such as Gildan, Russel or Anvil. But the maximum level of quality in t-shirt fabrics is ring spun combed cotton. For this type of fabric, the highest quality fibers, the longest, are reserved. In addition to following ancient spinning technology, this cotton includes an additional step after carding, combing. In this process all the shorter fibers are removed, discarding up to 15% of the cotton. A fabric of this type is resistant, has a smoother and more uniform surface and is softer to the touch. They are easy to identify, because the inside label usually says “combed cotton.” However, a loss of 15% of cotton cannot do anything other than make the material more expensive, so they are also the most expensive. (Jason Leung/Unsplash) The brands that use this type of fabric are American ApparelSol’s, Bella & Canvas. Even so, it is advisable not to blindly trust brands. Not all t-shirts from a producer are made with the same cotton. What is not very relevant to the quality of a t-shirt is the information that many of us use: the weight of the fabric. A thick, heavyweight, knit t-shirt open endit will be of poorer quality and will last less than a thin combed cotton t-shirt. Comparing the weight of the fabric makes sense only within the same quality. So if you are looking for a cotton t-shirt like the ones before, the ideal is to ask about the type of cotton it uses. If they say “combed cotton”, it is the best you can find. If they say “ring spun”, you will get a much higher quality than what you are used to. If they tell you: “What cotton? 100% cotton”, you will be able to provide all this information and differentiate between poor quality t-shirts and those that will last a lifetime. Image | https://unsplash.com/es/fotos/variada-ropa-hung-en-perchero-3JAOcgZ_ZXU In Xataka | Converse sneakers were once the symbol of the millennial generation: now they have been in free fall for years In Xataka | France had maintained the monopoly on luxury perfumes for centuries: Arab countries are taking it away