Gen Z men are embracing “old money” dressing
Lately, the Instagram algorithm registration has changed. Where once infinite-soled sneakers and sweatshirts with logos that screamed from a mile away dominated, now there are movie videos, martinis served in cut-crystal glasses, and twenty-year-old boys who look like they’ve stepped out of a film set in the late 1950s. They’ve left behind the uniform of hypebeast to dress like Paul Newman on a yacht on the Riviera or like a young JFK Jr. on Martha’s Vineyard. It’s not just a wardrobe choice, it’s a symptom. As CNN explainswe are facing an “intentional, defined by moderation” change, where young men align their clothing with the way they want to be perceived today: as men with purpose and control. But behind this facade of neatness, lies a much more complex narrative about fear of the future and a worrying ideological drift that has been found in the Barbour jacket. his definitive banner. The change is palpable in the data. According to Lyst trends reportglobal demand for quarter-zip sweaters (quarter-zips) increased 31% by the end of 2025. Similarly, searches for the iconic loafers Le Loafer of Saint Laurent rose 66%. But if we look further, the data from the technology consultancy Heuritech They are revealing of this conservative turn: searches for boots with an equestrian aesthetic have increased by 39% and gingham prints, typical of the 1950s, have grown by 33%. The language of success is no longer streetwear disruptive; now it is “quiet luxury”. This trend has jumped from the catwalks to lifestyle. According to Business InsiderGeneration Z is “storming” golf courses, a sport that has historically been the playground of the mature elite. Interest has risen 30% since 2016, and in 2023 more than 3.4 million young people played for the first time. It is no longer just about clothes, but about inhabiting the spaces of exclusivity to, As some experts point outnot to be left out of the “business conversations” that occur in the greens. A piece that marks the change On this aesthetic chessboard, the king piece is the Barbour jacket. It was born in 1894 to protect fishermen and sailors, but now it is part of a different identity sign. Margaret Barbour understood in the 80s that the future of the brand involved capitalizing on its connection with the old money, achieving that Queen Elizabeth II and the then Prince Charles made it the symbol of the British rural aristocracy. In Spain, this return has taken a specific form: it has become the aesthetic fever of the right-wing kids. What was once a functional garment for the countryside is today a status symbol in the city that visually separates those who long for a traditional order from those who transitory fashions follow. The Barbour, with its paraffin smell and tartan lining, functions as armor that projects stability and class membership, even if the wearer does not own an acre of land. This turn does not occur in a vacuum. It coincides with what academics like Vivek Chibber define as the sunset of “wokism”. After years in which brands focused on social activism (from Black Lives Matter to Bud Light’s trans campaigns), the pendulum has swung strongly Towards the conservative side. The corporations they are dismantling their Diversity, Equity and Inclusion (DEI) programs to avoid boycotts and align with an electorate that rejects “political correctness.” As Nesrine Malik analyzes in your column for Guardianthe fall of woke up is largely due to their “capture by elites.” For Malik, the patrician class hijacked identity politics, turning social justice into an exercise in symbolic gestures and elitist language (such as the use of Latinx or pronouns in bios) that ended up alienating the working class. This “diluted and flaccid version” of social justice, created in the image and likeness of the privileged, has provoked massive rejection. In this scenario, youth are no longer looking for “allies”, but rather authority figures and brands that, like Barbour, represent a tangible and unambiguous moral heritage. Barbour’s collaboration with Chloé is the death certificate of the progressive avant-garde: the aesthetics of privilege are now the only refuge value. A hierarchy of exclusion What we previously knew simply as style preppyfor Generation Z it is now, as defined by GQ“a character you can play.” Inspired by figures like Dickie Greenleaf in The talent of Mr. Ripleyyoung people look for clothes that “reveal that you have, at least, a yacht parked in the port.” However, this interpretation has an ideological “B side”. In his academic research The Fascist Potential of the ‘Old Money’ Trendresearcher Veronica Bezold warns that aesthetics It’s not just innocent nostalgia.. Bezold points out that the content old money On social media, he often portrays “new money”—technological or minority-linked fortunes—as something “vulgar.” By glorifying the “purity” of lineage and inherited wealth, Bezold argues that the trend aestheticizes neoliberalism and connects with radical right narratives of exclusion. A social hierarchy is thus validated where the value of a person depends on their origin and not their effort, feeding a historical amnesia about a past that was only “golden” for a few. The question underlying all of this is: why does a generation that lives in economic inequality dress like the class that ruined its future? The answer is sociological. A report in Curation Edit describe this phenomenon as “survival cosplay”. in a market inaccessible real estate and a bowling economy (gig economy), dressing like an heir is a way of claiming a stability they do not possess. “If you can’t buy a house, at least you can buy cream-colored pants that say you could,” they point out. But there is a deeper power component. As Martina Porta explains in his academic thesis The habitus of politicsthe wardrobe is an institutional communication tool that builds an image of authority. By adopting this style, the young Gen Z seeks to integrate into the habitus of the ruling classes to appear “competent” and “employable” in an increasingly rigid system. It’s a mimicry strategy: if you can’t beat … Read more