a cheese so extreme in its preparation that the European Union had to put limits

Few more fascinating things for the human being than that indicated as “forbidden” and “dangerous.” If we also talk about a gastronomic product that comes with the Italian seal and that after it there are hundreds of myths and legends, we have the breeding ground to raise the product to the object of worship for the most exquisite and adventurous palates. There are many good cheese storiesbut none like that of most dangerous cheese in the world and its maturation process.

Casu Marzu. The truth is that cheese is, in essence, fermented and aging milk. It happens that the process goes through controls to achieve adequate balance between bacterial activity and the quality and taste of cheese. The variety in this process and the different traditional approaches to elaborate it is what makes us have so many types. Yet, None approaches the Casu Marzu processwhose translation already gives us a track, “rotten cheese.”

This Italian cheese from Sardinia has a peculiarity. It is created with the help of very special worms or larvae, creatures that remain alive during the maturation and fermentation process and, most importantly, when we open it to taste it. So, it is time to close your eyes and expect the portion not to reach the mouth with a living larva.

The fly and cheese. It We count a long time ago And it serves to give context to the story of Casu Marzu. Humans have been eating dairy products like cheese almost 6,000 years and, in essence, we owe everything to a fly. And it is that the fermentation process, key in the delicacy, occurred first thanks to the role played by the fruit fly.

Apparently, the casual encounter between the insect and a cube of fresh milk flowed into a new type of yeast thanks to which raw milk became a different organic compound. The mixture of two different substances and yeasts worked the miracle. However, already a difference from most fermentation processes of cheeses, Casu Marzu has a more “narrow” relationship with the fruit fly.

Very active larvae. The larvae come from the Piophila Casei cheese fly. Always in motion, they are able to jump up to 15 centimeters in the air. In fact, it is considered harmful in food industries. The contradiction is given because as an detritivorous, it can be very useful in forensic investigations and, for cheese addicts, they are fundamental for the creation of Casu Marzu.

Fermentation process. The cheesers begin the process of the famous delicacy by cutting a small hole in a sheep milk cheese wheel and leaving it outside, maturing. Flies (the Piophila Casei) make their appearance and enter the opening to put their eggs. Once the larvae hatch inside, their excretions decompose the fats and proteins of the cheese, creating a gentle and creamy texture.

At this point, when a sticky liquid known as tears is filtered through the peel, the cheese is “at its point” ready to eat. The resulting delicacy is spicy and penetrating flavorsimilar to maturo gorgonzola, with an acid touch that leaves the trail of the larvae. Finally and not least, to know if we are facing the true Casu Marzu we must make a clean cut, if we find a mass of worms that twist, everything is going well.

Danger: myiasis. If we ignore the larvae, the creamy piece of cheese may seem tempting. In fact, it is for many adventurers. However, we must, approach the piece with some caution. As The Science of Cheese points out“The worms that jump cheese are able to do it a few centimeters, so consumers are recommended to protect the eyes” when the wheel opens.

More risks. If by chance we end up engulfing any of these living larvae, there is another danger. According to the University of FloridaThey are often cited as one of the most likely causes of intestinal myiasis. This condition, certainly disgusting, occurs basically when the worms are installed in our digestive system. There, in our intestine, they make “mischief.”

“Intestinal myiasis occurs when eggs or fly larvae previously deposited in food are ingested and survived in the gastrointestinal tract,” They explain the centers for disease control and prevention. “Some infested patients have been asymptomatic; others have had abdominal pain, vomiting and diarrhea.”

The most dangerous. For all this, the appellation is not trivial. The marzu casu that contains larva It is enjoyed for thousands of years in Sardinia. Cheese, prohibited in many parts of Europe, can reach really high prices. In Sardinia the kilo can be found for more than 50 euros.

The trick to ingest it. By the way, there is a formula in the event that you want to taste a piece of cheese with the greatest assurances. Yes, many people take risks and eat live worms, but alternately, They can be crushed to kill them and then spread the cheese About bread.

We can also seal a piece in a plastic bag with closure. When the sound of worms stops, it is time for tasting. And if it doesn’t even convince you, you can always go to the super or to the market and ask for the cheese that you like so much and that does not bring surprises.

Image | Sarah Gregg, Shardan

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*An earlier version of this article was published in July 2024