In early February, The Civil Guard dismantled An international network dedicated to illegal wine from La Rioja. That is, a network dedicated to falsifying wine bottles and selling them in Vietnam and China.
The funny thing is that they have operated for years and only the alarm has jumped because a Spanish tourist saw a suspicious bottle in a gourmet store in Vietnam and bought it to bring it to the country and analyze it.
A problem that does not stop growing. For years, illicit trade and fraud in the wine sector and spirits keep growing. In 2023, Spanish customs and police authorities seized Almost 15 million liters of illegal drinks. Globally, although there are those who estimate that up to fifth of the wine that is sold could be false, more conservative estimates They say that annual losses in drinks of this type amount to 1,300 million euros.
Of course, it is something that worries (and much) the most important wineries who see not only how they lose income, but how the low quality of falsifications affects their brand image. In fact, there are lawsuits specialized in intellectual property that They offer service to the wineries throughout Europe to monitor the market (ON and Offline) and detect this type of falsification.
What exactly is that is falsified? To start the same wine. There is Fine fakes that combine lower quality wines To try to pass them through higher bottles, but normally it is about replacing. But there is much beyond the “dilution” and “replacement of ingredients”, there is a lot explained in the Spanish A few years ago Fabián Torres, Director of Business Development of SICPA Spain.
Complex. Be that as it may, counterfeiters play with one thing: the world of tastings is a complicated world. Although it seems that it is true that There are supercatters capable of overcoming the most difficult teststhe truth is that for most human beings there are no major differences between wines. Not enough, at least, to detect a falsification achieved.
And this has more crumb than it seems. Because many people have begun to ask that why pay a disproportionate amount of money for a flavor profile that, in short, can be achieved “falsified” at a much lower price. The best example is the case of Rudy Kurniawan, perhaps the most famous counterfeit in recent years. After leaving prison in 2021 he has set up a business in which FALSIFY VINES ‘ON DEMAND’.
In your case, organize tastings to buy exclusive broths with your own falsifications. Normally, they win their wines.
Of “falsified wine” to “duplicate wine”. It is a phenomenon very similar to the calls’duplicated perfumes‘(legal fragrances designed to smell like other design perfumes): we have seen it in supermarkets with Cheap versions of the most popular wines of the moment, like Verdejo frizzante.
However, The potential of this type of products It is much greater. After all, we live in a world in which LOS DUPLAS WITHOUT ALCOHOL No They stop growing. We have gone from an industry in which the flavor was inseparable to the historical manufacturing process to a flavor profiles laboratory.
And, in Spain, one of the world’s world leaders, this revolution will make the foundations vibrate of the industry.
Image | Kelsey Knight | Klara Kulikova
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