When you step on a restaurant there are certain images you assume as normal. “Normal” is for example that if you ask for a cane the waiter goes to the tap in the bar and throws it with greater or lesser art. And “normal” is that if you want is a wine (Let’s put a river) That same waiter takes out a bottle and serves 150 ml in a glass. However in a time when the cane It is falling cape Things also change in viticulture. Although the bottle remains the queen is increasingly “normal” that this wine is served with a tap, cardboard or kite.
And it makes sense.
Of bottles and boxes. That we carry years decades associating good wine and category restaurants to good bottles does not mean that the bottle, as such, is the only way to keep it. Not even serving the client. Hoteliers have other options, such as Bag-in-Box either Keykegsthat basically rethink the way of packing and handling the broths. Instead of doing it in the lifelong bottles that close with a cork use cardboard boxes provided with a valve and with a polyethylene bag inside. Or a system of metal bariletes and taps similar to the one used for decades to serve beer reeds.
Image question. The system is not new. As explained already in 2016 Fernando Marinas, from Finca La Estacada, The Grific Wine (Wine on Tap) exists for a long time and stainless steel barrels and Disposable PET type Nor are they a novelty for companies in the sector. In the US, its use can be in fact traced to the 80s. The novelty is how they are expanding through the bars and shops in Spain and (the really curious) how that formula tries to shake the stigma that often associates cardboard packaging to poor quality wine.
A tap wine, please! Although the bottle is still the undisputed queen of the sector and it will be difficult for the cards to replace them in homes, in the hospitality it is increasingly easy to meet tap wine. In a context marked by A remarkable increase In bulk wine imports, hoteliers have decided to give a chance to the Bag-in-Box and the taps. It can be checked with a rapid review of the Spanish press, but also the foreigner. In recent years, coinciding with his popularity during confinement have dedicated articles The Guardian either The Telegraph.
Recently The country published Also a report in which he cited as a half example dozen premises spread over Spain in which they serve as if they were beer. And the list is only that: a small sample. There are companies Betting on bottling in keg And bars that when they are asked for a wine already give the option to serve it in different formats (glass, half jug or jug) directly from the tap. “A new language in the world of wine”, summed up a year ago Iago Pazos, of Abastos 2.0, in The voice of Galicia.
“It doesn’t mean they are worth less”. The pending tap wine does not have so much to do with the product itself, logistics, transport or distribution to hoteliers as with their image. To expand, the wine packaged in Bag-in-Box and served just like the reeds must shake the prejudices that for years associate the format to the low quality broths. “They are careful wines. That they are in a box does not mean that they are worth less. On the contrary: they reach places where they were not before,” claims in The country Maite Sánchez, from the Arrayán winery.
So that this idea can producers have a complex and nothing simple task: break with decades of hegemony of the bottle and its success among the clientele. He recognizes it The Galician host Juan Fernández, owner of a place with 10 taps. “We take the wines already served, in a glass or jar and there are people who look at it suspicion. Then they try it, they find that the wine is the same or better than the bottling and they already accept it. We have a work of promotion and didactics.”
But … why? The million dollar question. One thing is that the wine can be transported in cardboard and served with taps, just like beer; But … Why resort to that format if the bars lead a lifetime working with bottles? For format promoters the answer is easy: the plus they provide. “Everything is advantages”, Fernández emphasizes About his wine. “It has no contact with oxygen or light and therefore the wine does not evolve and retains all its properties. And there are no risks, such as damaging the cork.”
Marine too stands out Format strengths, both for warehouses, which save the expenses of the bottling, and for hoteliers or consumers, who end up being favored by that same cut. “Stainless steel does not generate product flavor migration such as other materials, which ensures that the product will maintain its organoleptic properties throughout the distribution chain,” duck. In the case of Keykeg Marinas points the same qualities, although “unlike the steel barrel does not last so much in stock.”
The footprint outside the wineries and bars. In his analysis he also recalls the “ecological savings” that allows the format. “Each 20 -liter barrel equals 26.6 bottles, corks and less labels,” List Before listing other “practical advantages”, such as ease when inventoring and transporting barrels, the speed of the service or the generation of less waste in the premises itself. Of course, it clarifies that not all wines are equally suitable for the format. The most appropriate in their opinion are young people with a few months in barrel.
There are producers who They claim In addition, the wine carbon footprint in bags and cardboard format is (much) less than the traditional packaging, with its bottle and cork. How much? According to Oliver Leaby The Bib Wine Company, about ten times minor, a factor to which they also add advantages related to freshness, conservation or storage. The price to be paid: a change of mentality and give up the old liturgy of unfortunate a bottle.
Images | Anokarina (Flickr) and Louis Hansel (UNSPLASH)


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