Sometimes the story leaves us with hints of such fine irony that they seem like the work of the best of screenwriters. It happens in Barajas. It has stood there for more than three centuries a baroque hermitage dedicated to Our Lady of Solitude, the landlady of the district. The passage of time and the development of the area, marked by the proximity of the Madrid airport, has made the temple a true tribute to that very thing: loneliness. After all, it stands isolated in the middle of a roundabout.
The question is… How the hell did it get there?
A nod to history. In a way the hermitage Nuestra Señora de la Soledad is more than just a small baroque temple. It is also a reminder of a style and philosophy of religious architecture that shined in its day and faded with the passage of time. This is what the Official College of Architects of Madrid says, which remember on your website that the building was part of “the network of chapels, hermitages and humiliations that dotted the roads of Castile” centuries ago.
“This dense network of small pieces has been progressively disappearing, depending on the growth of neighboring populations and the decline of the program they proposed,” COAM explains. “However, some of these pieces have been saved from the process, almost always for rather random reasons, such as their location in points of little speculative interest or their relationship with the memory of the place. Both occur in the case of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad.”
But what is the temple like? A baroque hermitage from the mid-17th century made up of four aligned structures: an access portico, the nave of the faithful, the sanctuary and a semi-detached house at the head. “All of this composed with attention to a truly exquisite scale, whose containment in plan reinforces the ascending character of the complex,” explains the school, which refers to the building as “a true treatise on wise popular architecture.” Inside stands out a baroque altarpiece with busts of the Virgin, Jesus and Saint Rita.
The most curious thing about the hermitage, however, is not its structure, its interior architecture or the pieces of sacred art that it preserves. Not even its importance as an example of the region’s religious heritage. If there is something that attracts attention, it is its location, something that can be appreciated with a simple glance to Google Maps. Instead of being located at the top of a mountain, a meadow, a square or a town, the hermitage is located inside a gazebo, surrounded by a ring of asphalt.
It was actually there before the land became a roundabout.
Trapped between cars. Your case is so peculiar that years ago Madrilanea treated him and more recently dedicated a report The Confidential. Both explain that to understand the location of the hermitage we have to go back decades, when the high traffic on the road from Vicálvaro to Barajas led the authorities to think about ways to improve the road. The problem is that there was something that hindered their plans: the temple of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad.
The possibility of demolishing the hermitage or even moving it was put on the table, an idea difficult to execute considering that it was built based on brick and masonry. Neighborhood pressure ensured that both proposals were shelved and the building remained in place, although next to the road.
Was that all? No. In the 90s the temple once again generated debate because it was located in the middle of the project to connect Plaza de Castilla with the airport through the M-11. Once again, the hermitage survived again, but at the cost of being left in an even more peculiar situation: the solution that was put on the table to avoid demolishing it was to open a tunnel under the ground.
As the years went by, the old walls of the temple would see another project to improve the connection of an area that has ended up marked by the growth of the capital and the pull of the Madrid-Barajas airport, which today is an entry, exit or transit point for more than 60 million of travelers per year, in addition to thousands of tons of merchandise. The hermitage has endured, but it has not come for free: now it is isolated in a roundabout, converted into a junction of roads.
Breaking the norm. The COAM admits that Barajas is not a common case. “We must recognize how unusual it is to know how to make the conservation of these monuments compatible with the layout of large infrastructures such as, in this case, the express access route to the airport,” points out the schoolfor which the temple is today “a strange monument”, “practically useless for its former purposes, isolated at the roundabout at the intersection of the expressway and Logroño avenue.”
The situation of the hermitage is far from being ideal in any case. And not only because it has been left “alien” to the town, connected by a zebra crossing. There are those who warn that, like other historical monuments in a similar situation, the temple is very exposed to road traffic, with its load of pollution, smoke and the vibrations generated by the passage of cars, buses and trucks.
Images | Google Earth and Wikipedia 1 and 2
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